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Subject: [rec.motorcycles] QuackFAQ--Frequently Asked Questions about Ducatis (02/02)

This article was archived around: 07 Sep 1997 02:21:19 -0500

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Archive-name: motorcycles/QuackFAQ Posting-Frequency: monthly, near the 18th Last-modified: 1997/9/18 Version: 2.10 Expires: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 00:00:00 GMT
depression. Credit Dale at BTF Motors in Livermore for delivering unto us the more refined "Otto Valvole" technique. DO NOT neglect checking the tension at 3,000 mile intervals -- although they usually retain tension well, they have been known to need a tweak here and there. Remember, bad things.... Return to the Table of Contents --------------------------------------------------------------------------- 32. "Do I really have to remove the radiator on my water-cooled Ducati to adjust the horizontal cylinder's valves?" (thanks to Godfrey DiGiorgi, (ramarren@apple.com) for help on this one) In order to remove the valve cover and check the adjustment on this valve, you need to remove all four radiator bolts and pull the radiator forward so you can get your hand and a cut-down allen key in there. Unhooking the tach cable also helps. However, if you actually need to adjust the intake valve shims, there's no room for the tools or your fingers to work on it without removing the radiator. If you're dextrous and determined, you could do it, but you'll save yourself time, aggravation and skinned knuckles (and likely do a more accurate job) if you just remove the radiator anyway. I'd consider removing the radiator next time just for the clearance check: it's just a little bit fussy to refill the system, but it makes the job so much easier to do it's likely worth the extra time there. Draining it is no problem, it's refilling the system and getting all the air out that proves challenging. Adding a filling cap into the hoses is probably not a good idea, as you'd have to cut through some very expensive pieces to get to it, and it might also invalidate your warranty. The hot setup for purging the system on refill is to pump the left hand hose coming off the water pump as you slowly fill the system. This pushes coolant through the rear cylinder and helps burp the air bubbles out. I don't think it's all that difficult, just a minor PITA. Return to the Table of Contents --------------------------------------------------------------------------- 33. "I just noticed that greyish smoke is coming out of my exhaust pipes when I close the throttle. I heard there was a problem with valve guides wearing prematurely on later Ducatis. Is this the cause? How can I tell on mine if it doesn't smoke?" Two-valve motors manufactured between 1990 and 1993 could have been assembled with the dreaded soft valve guide material. This mostly affects exhaust valves, but can also be a problem with intakes. It's a random event -- some 2 valvers had 'em, some didn't, and no 4-valvers ever got any as they use different longer guides altogether. Ducati changed the guide material mid-'93. Basically, the valves get loose, letting oil pass through and eventually out the exhaust, making a nice blue smoke that smells just wonderful. Some gooey (not GUI) droplets may also appear on your exhaust tips. The above symptoms may not necessarily be evident, though, which means you oughta check 'em once just to be sure. Piece of cake to check. Just pull the valve covers off (not counting all the goodies that have to be removed/pushed aside to get to them) and put the engine at TDC (the engine turning tool helps here). Then try to rock the valve stem along the plane of the engine. Any movement at all means you've got a case. And it's easy to feel by hand -- remember, the desmo head only has a relatively weak return spring just for damping effect, the closer just raising the valve close to the seat. Gas pressure and pure inertia are what closes the seal when running. If you discover you have them, RUN, don't walk to your nearest dealer you can trust and get 'em replaced. If you're under warranty so much the better. Return to the Table of Contents --------------------------------------------------------------------------- 34. "Loctite comes in so many different colors (strengths). Which color do I use for my particular application?" (thanks to Mike Lee of Team Banana Racing, (mikel@ichips.intel.com) and the hotrod mailing list.) The most common ones are blue and red. Blue comes in a little bottle. Red comes in a tube that looks like a travel-size tooth paste tube. The blue stuff is most commonly used, and doesn't do a great job at preventing stuff from loosening. The red stuff is for things you will NEVER take apart again =8^). The warning on the tube says "requires heat and/or special tools for disassembly." They are not kidding.... Loctite Retaining Compounds --------------------------- Notes: * The gap fills are all *maximum*. The optimum gap is between 0.001" and 0.002" (0.002 to 0.004 diametral) for any of these adhesives; * This table refers to the *retaining compounds*, not *thread lock compounds*; * The viscosity "Low/Med/High" is from the descriptions for each product; * The '660' is referred to as 'Quick Metal', considered a non-running product; * If you're using another brand (is there any other ? :) you're on your own; * Cure Speed assumes no accelerator is used. Activators/accelerators may improve the gap filling capabilities slightly as well as ensuring proper/faster curing respectively. If you need to accelerate it, talk to your dealer; * Primers are useful on inactive surfaces such as aluminum, black oxide, stainless steel and thermoset plastics; * Remember... *CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN* !!! -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Compound No. 609 620 635 640 642 660 675 680 -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Color Green Green Green Green Green Silver Green Green *Maximum* Gap Fill 0.005" 0.015" 0.010" 0.007" 0.012" 0.020" 0.005" 0.015" (Diametral) Viscosity V.Low High High Med. Med. !!!! Low Med. (cP) 125 7000 2000 600 500 1200000 125 1250 Shear (psi) 3000 3000 4000 3000 3500 3000 3000 4000 Temp Range(F) Low -65 -65 -65 -65 -65 -65 -65 -65 High 300 450 300 400 350 300 300 300 Cure Speed Fixture (Min) 10 30 60 60 5 10 20 10 Full (Hrs) 24 24 24 24 24 24 24 24 Primer T or N T T T T or N N T T -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Uses: 609: spindle bearings, lip seals, bearing races 620: engine cylinder liners, heat exchanger tubes 635: gears, pulleys, fans, collars, rotors, sprockets, cams and flywheels to shafts. 640: bushings and sleeves, rotors to shafts 642: bushings in manual transmissions 660: worn shafts, worn housings, worn end bells, bearing spinouts, wallowed key-ways, wallowed splines 675: oil impregnated bushings, drill bushings 680: gears, wheels, pulleys, cams, collars, flywheels, sprockets, and rotors to shafts, replacement bearings in worn housings or on worn shafts. Return to the Table of Contents --------------------------------------------------------------------------- 35. "I seem to have a charging problem on my fuel-injected Ducati (907ie/851/888 etc.). Even when ridden daily, the battery seems to need a charge every few days or so. Is this common, and what can I do about it?" There seems to be much contentiousness between owners of the fuel-injected machines and Cagiva, with the dealer either the alibi or stuck in the middle, whichever you're inclined to believe. There are some fundamental facts to keep in mind before attempting to fix this "problem." The EFI models put more of a drain on the battery when running because of the power required to run the electronics, and also because they have a higher pressure fuel system. Because of this, the fuel pump runs more often and draws more current. Since the fuel pump is running so often, it becomes critical that there not be any obstructions in the fuel system. Ducati puts an in-line fuel filter inside the gas tank that seems to need frequent attention. As it turns out, even with a properly functioning charging system, a clogged fuel filter can cause the fuel pump to draw excessive amounts of current. (See elsewhere in this FAQ for specific procedures on removing and replacing the beast.) A telltale sign that the filter is hogging the juice is if the fuel pump is drawing more than normal current when the key is switched on. Hook up a voltmeter/ammeter across the battery and measure how many amps the pump draws -- with a clean fuel filter you should be drawing about 2 amps, with a dirty one probably close to 10. Likewise, with the voltmeter you shouldn't see a drop of more than .25 volts when the key is on, from about 12 volts. Another indicator of unusual drain (from a funky fuel filter) is what RPM is needed to reach a balanced charge condition, ie., at what RPM do you actually start charging the bike? With your trusty voltmeter hooked up, start up the bike -- when the amps read zero, that's the place, somewhere between 2500 and 3500 RPM. Below that and you're taking juice away from the battery to maintain the bike's functions. You can actually drain the battery so low so quickly the ignition may cause the bike to sputter and cough. This is why dealers always want to know if you ride in a lot of stop & go traffic, because you're certainly averaging less than the balance point when you count idle time. Another source of charging problems is a bad regulator or alternator that's not up to snuff. Look for wildly-fluctuating voltage readings when you're revving the bike steadily through the RPM range. Obviously this assumes the battery itself is charged and in good working order, topped off and everything. During the summer this can be easy to forget. Many posters swear by their Battery Tender (tm) to keep their battery in top notch shape, particularly when left sitting for a great while. If you're charging system is normal, however, you shouldn't have to depend on this device to enjoy your bike. Take careful measurements of your voltage and current levels and write them down for later reference should Cagiva or your dealer give you a hassle. Eliminate the obvious sources of irritation first, like a weak battery or a clogged fuel filter. If that fails, whip out the numbers and hope for the best. If it's a new bike under warranty, you could be looking at a whole new regulator/rectifier, a new alternator or even a whole new wiring harness (yes, it's been done, ask Jon Wright). If it's not under warranty, best to proceed with the regulator swap first as the most likely candidate. 907ie owners, don't let the dealer convince you the "clock is hungry." Except for long-duration sitting spells, this is a fallacy, and besides, now you know better 'cuz you went out and bought a Battery Tender at your local outlet. AND NOW FOR A PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT!: If you mess with your Duck's wiring harness, particularly if you had a nice expensive alarm system installed to protect your investment, Cagiva will invalidate your warranty. Ask them yourself. You've been warned. Return to the Table of Contents --------------------------------------------------------------------------- 36. "I signed up for Reg Pridmore's CLASS, a high-performance school. What kind of prepping do I need to do to my bike before I get there? What can I expect?" Although different riding schools have different regulations regarding bike prep (call them for exact info), in general you ought to think about the following: * taping up the speedometer or covering it in some other manner; * disconnecting the tail light and turn signal stalks (some schools may make you take them off); * removing your mirrors, or taping them up (again dependent on the school); * giving all the fasteners and other attachables a good once-over; * making sure all the fluid and lubrication levels are topped off; * lubing and adjusting your chain; * putting on some fresh rubber, or at least have plenty of tread before you hit the track; if you do put on new tires, make REAL SURE they're scrubbed in beforehand. When you go to the track, it might be wise to be reasonably prepared for the simple catastrophes that may befall you. Bring the rudiments of a tool kit, a pressure gauge you know to be accurate, and some extra oil and chain lube. Some schools, like Team Suzuki Endurance's Track School, emphasize competitive speed and skills as they are aimed primarily at those individuals with an eventual interest in racing. Many of their off-track sessions deal with safety and sponsorship, for instance. You will learn advanced riding techniques at these schools, however, so the non-racer need not dismiss these out of hand. However, the overwhelming favorite amongst non-racer enthusiasts seems to be Reg Pridmore's CLASS, taught by former AMA Superbike champ Reg and his son Jason, who is campaigning the series now. Reg's school is said to be popular primarily because the emphasis is on developing smoothness at a non-threatening pace, ie. not more than you can handle. Many people have come back from CLASS surprised at just how fast (and smooth) they'd become by the end of the sessions, and vow to return for more. The insider scoop for CLASS is to opt for the trip 'round the track with Reg or Jason on back of their Beemers. For a more detailed account of the various schools, there is a comparison in the January '92 issue of Motorcyclist magazine. Return to the Table of Contents --------------------------------------------------------------------------- 37. "What kind of luggage can I get for my sport-tourer?" There is a veritable plethora of tankbags, tailbags and saddlebags you can get for your Ducati, and it is beyond the scope of this FAQ to cover all of them. Two brands that seem to receive special attention from the Ducati list, however, are RKA and Marsee, possibly because these companies understand the lust and paranoia associated with Ducatisti, understand their concern for scratching rather fragile Italian paint, and cater to their ilk. List denizens have extended their loyalty accordingly. This is not an endorsement of the makes -- testimonials are merely given for you to weigh. Whatever baggage you choose for your steed, please carefully read and follow the installation instructions as unnecessary movement against your precious paint may have you looking for touch-up sooner than you expected! RKA Marsee Accessories Richard Battles & Kathy Storin Rex Marsee 2175 B Bluebell Dr Box 2588 Santa Rosa, Caw 95403 Temecula, CA 92590 707.579.5045 909.694.9742 From: Beth Dixon, bethd@netcom.com, 750ss: When buying luggage for my 750SS sport tourer I looked at both RKA and Marsee. Both products are made well and both companies have a customer service attitude. I chose the Marsee over the RKA because I liked the mounting system better and ordering was as easy as telling Dale what I wanted (Marsee sells through dealers rather than directly). For those who want luggage for their Ducs, Marsee is an alternative to RKA. I find it extremely easy to get the luggage on and off the bike --takes no time at all. (Helpful hint: When touring with a luggage loaded bike, do not keep the registration paperwork under the seat. Especially when the luggage is on both sides of and on top of the seat that needs to be removed to get to the registration. And especially if you might to anything that would encourage a friendly officer to request to see that registration. (Don't ask how I know.) I have a set of Marsee saddlebags (large) and a large tailbag. He makes a couple of sized of these, as well as two or three sizes of tailbags. All are available with either "Marsee" or "Ducati" embroidered in strategic places and come in either red or black. ... My tailbag has a huge square of that nice reflective material on the back (the side facing any vehicle approaching from the rear of the bike). Not only does it make me more visible to traffic, but it helps when camping. Set the tailbag next to the tent with the reflective bit towards the gathering area. When its time to go to bed, swing the flashlight in a arc towards the general direction of the tent and its _very_ easy to find our tent among all those other tents. Especially helpful when Jim Broglio brings a large keg of very tasty homebrew to the Dryside Gather. From: Jon Wright, (jwright@pages.com), 907ie: I bought the [Marsee] non-magnetic 24 liter tank bag to use for a commuter. I was really impressed with the big, big zippers and the quality of workmanship they put into it. I think an improvement would be for a net pocket on the inside to capture bits that seem to roll around a lot in there, like my mini-Kryptonite. Different bags have different features. After my recent dump, detailed elsewhere, I had a small tear in the bag. I sent it to Rex Marsee (he's local here in San Diego) and Rex put it back on the line and disassembled it, putting new pieces in as if it were brand new. All for very little. He usually answers the phone in a slow, steady tone, and I found him very responsive and concerned that I took a dump. Rex seems a very personable individual in the discussions I've had with them. I promised myself I would go up and see the beasties being made. He told me to not fall down as much in the future on my receipt. I do whatever I'm told (except by my wife). I believe he rides a 750ss or something like that, but I'm not sure. If you have a 907, be sure to order up an extra-long strap at the tank/seat juncture, as the wide base the tank sits on takes up all the slack. I needed another 8 to 10 inches. Oh yeah, the other cool things: it has a zippered pocket on the top for sunglasses, and big swatches of reflective material on the sides. Very useful, in my opinion. ... My Marsee definitely folds up and expands. Perhaps the neatest feature I've seen in a tailpack/saddlebag combo is Marsee's collapsing tail -- when you need to sit on it or put a sleeping bag back there, it collapses totally flat. I almost bought it just for that reason for my VFR, but clearances were such with my Honda that I'd have to relocate my goofy turn signals. I later broke 'em off, ending that controversy. From: Godfrey DiGiorgi, (ramarren@apple.com), 907ie: Last summer when I was planning my first trip on the 907, I acquired the RKA tailpack (yea, the sporty looking one).... I went off on a 2800 mile trip, which included about 800 miles of stinking, pouring rain.... The RKA tailpack ... was brilliant: it leaked not a drop, stayed securely in place and didn't damage the bodywork at all. ... I also decided that for longer trips, I wanted less on the tank and panniers. Hard bags have never appealed to me due to the weight and such, then I looked at RKA's bags. I bought them at the USGP last year but didn't really have the chance to use them until this past weekend. My first time installation had them on the bike and secure in 4 minutes. I tested them, lightly loaded, at the full range of speeds the bike is capable of and found them to be secure, not block the mirrors too much (907 mirrors are low mounted and easy to occlude with passenger knees or bags), and unobtrusive. Once the over-seat straps are in place, they come on and off in seconds. And they do not damage the bodywork. Since my bike is Anthracite Black, I had them done in solid black with "Desmo" embroidered on the sides. I also got the liner bags for them. I'm planning to replace the Sport tailpack with the squarer one... it holds more and is easier to get in and out of ... if I find I need additional space. Overall, I like the bags a lot, they work very well and Richard & Kathy have also provided me mounting straps that fit well on my other bikes if I need to use them. From: Brad Turner, (mbt@mkt.3com.com), 907ie: RKA (Richard and Kathy's Accessories, no shit!) has a full compliment of soft bags which include a couple of different models of tank bags, saddle bags and two different types of tail bags. For the 907 I've got one of the tank bags, the saddlebags, and the uglier square tail bag. Tom [900ss] and Godfrey [907ie] have the sleeker (and lower capacity) tailbag. So far I've been really pleased with the stuff. The only complaint I have is probably my own fault. The saddle bags are a tiny bit faded, but I did not follow the instructions that come with the products which suggest using Scotchgard on the material, not only to improve water resistance but also because it helps with UV protection as well. On the SS bikes I'm not too sure how well my tank bag would work due to the hump on the front of the tank where the vent hose is located. I'd still call them up and ask, Richard has a brand new 900ss and Kathy rides nice blue 906 Paso. They use their own bikes at shows and in their product literature. No busted seams or anything like that, I even [crashed] my first 907 with the [RKA] tail and tank bags installed. The tail bag picked up some road grease and a minor bit of abrasion, but it held up just fine. The mounting system has never given me any problems (even at 120+ blasts). The saddle bags are two years old and going just fine. The tank and tail are 8 months old and no complaints. I'd speculate the saddle bags have seen about 1/2 of the 16K miles I've put on the 907's. The tank and tail bag less, because they are newer. From: Duke Robillard, (duke@io.com), 888: I picked up one of the small, magnetic RKA tank bags for my 888. It fits well, both collapsed and expanded, and it stays on well, too. And it's got lots of cool inside pockets. Return to the Table of Contents --------------------------------------------------------------------------- 38. SUMMARY -- Favorite Modifications and Changes Seen on the Ducati List, by Model and more or less in Order of Importance. Don't neglect readjusting the clip-ons, footpegs and clutch/brake controls to your particular dimensions. These can make a big difference in how you perform with your new acquisition. Ducati 900ss, sl, ss cr, ss sp, 750ss, 600ss. '91 to '94. * K & N filter kit; along with * DynoJet Stage II; * Aftermarket exhaust -- Fast By Ferracci, CarbonTech/Pro Italia, Staintune most often mentioned; * Better tires -- the general consensus is the stock Michelin 59X's are not too sticky, but 89X's are and last at least as long; consider Dunlop Sportmax GP or Metzeler MEZ1 as well; * 39 tooth rear sprocket -- go for the hardest metals you can find, preferably some type of hardened aluminum, as these wear out faster than stock; * Aftermarket windscreen to prevent degradation of the foam around the gauges; * Corbin saddle. Ducati 851/888SPO * Stainless steel or Kevlar brake lines; * SBS RCA brake pads; * K & N filter kit; along with * Aftermarket fuel injection chip -- Fuel Injected Motorcycles' or Fast By Ferracci; * High-mount aftermarket pipes -- same manufacturers as above, plus Termignoni (available at PI Motorsports * Tires -- same manufacturers and lines as above, although some posters put on race rubber for their frequent trips to the track. The K&N, chip, and pipes go on all at the same time because they are designed to work together as a set. The reason for the brake mods first is that stock, these bikes will GO just fine, but they don't STOP just fine until these mods are made. Ducati 907ie * 42 tooth rear sprocket -- again, go for the hardest metals you can find; with this size you'll have to spring for a longer chain, so plan accordingly; * '93 factory clutch upgrade; * Corbin saddle; * 1/4, 1/2 and 1" risers are a common modification, as the seat/handlebar relationship seems to be odd for some riders; others don't complain; * K & N filter kit; along with * Aftermarket fuel injection chip -- Fuel Injected Motorcycles' seems to be preferred to others; * Aftermarket exhaust -- Staintune aluminum seems to be preferred with this model, as they also have a more graceful curve to complement the full bodywork; * European tail light assembly, which removes the pod-mounted turn signals and makes room for saddlebags; * Stainless steel or Kevlar brake lines; * SBS brake pads for better feel and performance; * Better tires -- Michelin 89X's, Dunlop Sportmax GPs or Metzeler MEZ1's. Return to the Table of Contents --------------------------------------------------------------------------- 39. "I have one of the Weber-carburetted Ducatis (Paso 750/906, 750 Sport) and it's driving me crazy trying to keep it in tune. Is there any hope?" The main problem with the fussy carburetion and concomitant partial throttle response is poor fuel pressure from the electrostatic pump used in these models. The Weber 44DCNF is a variant of their automotive downdrafts which, although very sophisticated, need sophisticated know-how of their multiple circuits as well to get them to perform at their best. They were designed to operate with 3 psi, give or take a half psi, at the float bowl inlet, and the electrostatic pump of the Paso and Sport doesn't maintain a steady enough pressure. In particular, too much fuel pressure to the float valve overfills the float chamber, which ends up soaking the cover gasket and enrichening the mixtures across all the circuits. Once the cover gasket is soaked, the float height setting increases, which made the mixture over-rich all the more. This over-rich condition affects the idle and low end of the midrange more than the top end, including accelerator pump operation, which explains the traditional Paso problems of bad off-idle and partial throttle flat spots. Motorcycle carbs, being designed primarily for gravity feed, are typically a lot simpler than the Weber and much less sensitive to fuel pressure variations and angle of installation. The rotary pump of the later 907ie alleviates the inadequacies of the electrostatic, but this doesn't help you out much, does it? The universal solution, barring a total carb swap, is to add a fuel pressure regulator set to Weber's 3 psi. The typical installation involves sticking it in-line, forming a Y-junction between the delivery line, return line, and the carburetor. Using the stock flow restricter on the return hose, you can adjust the regulator to provide exactly 3.0 psi to the carb using an in-line pressure gauge. A minor bit of jet fiddling wouldn't hurt as well to eliminate a minor flat spot at 6000 rpm that still exists. A successful tuner reports 155 mains (vs. 145 US spec, 150 Euro spec), 60 idlers (vs. 55 US, 57 Euro), and about 3.5 turns out on the idle mixture screws did the trick for his 750 Sport. He also installed a K & N filter kit and Fast By Ferracci cannisters with appreciable results, the only drawback to the jetting changes being somewhat rich running in city riding and slightly harder starting. Posters recommend the Weber Tuning Book from Haynes as the bible for these carbs. Syd's, in Florida at 813.522.3333 is recognized as a dealer with good expertise on the Webers as well. The manual might be cheaper.... If you're feeling really particularly performance-challenged, one Paso owner decided to chuck the whole thing and get the Mikuni flat-slides, which run about $500 as of this writing from Fast By Ferracci. Keep in mind the throttle cables are unusual in this application -- a custom 1 into 2 split arrangement -- and you will have to source the fuel line splitter, hoses and do all this without any instructions. One carb is marked with an "F" to designate it the forward one, which might be a little important considering different angle mountings require different float settings. However, the grin factor seems to make up for all the skinned knuckles and headaches. There is a Dell' Orto kit available as well, but no one has tried one on the list yet. These are available from Syd's. Return to the Table of Contents --------------------------------------------------------------------------- 40. "Can vertically challenged [re: short] people still ride Ducatis?" (by Beth Dixon, (bethd@netcom.com); inspiration by Sheri Coble (sbc@cvsd.cv.com).) Lots of Ducatis fit smaller folks. I'm just under 5'4" tall and 120 pounds. Sheri Coble is even smaller than I am (somewhere around 5"). Both of us ride 750ss's with only slight modification (ie. a seat with some of the foam cut out of it). The 750SS has been discontinued for '94, but the 900ss SP or CR are basically the same frame, seat, etc. It does weigh a tad more, but isn't really any physically larger in dimensions. The M900 [Monster] would be an excellent choice for a smaller person. I fit it a tad wide around the seating area for me but that's easily fixed. I found it seemed quite handle-able when dealer-showroom-test sitting. Now, if you want something _really_ small, try an old (mid 1960s era) Ducati single. Teeeeny tiny leetle bikes. I can straddle one with room leftover when the bike is on the centerstand. A rare occurrence! I'd stay away from the mid-1970s to late-1980s models. They are simply too tall. My feet are nowhere even close to the ground and there is no padding on the oak-plank seats those came with so removing seat foam isn't really an option. And the 907ie is as wide as a whale for a person with short legs. Return to the Table of Contents --------------------------------------------------------------------------- 41. "Where can I get neat Ducati pictures to drool over?" GIF and JPEG images of Ducatis and many others are available on the ftp server that John Stafford has made available to us. If you have FTP services, try: ftp vax2.winona.msus.edu login: euro (no password) ftp> cd ducati ftp< dir >get a file listing> 'binary' will put you into binary mode for downloading .jpg or .gif files. 'get' will transfer files from the server to your workstation 'put' does the opposite for a complete listing, just ftp in and get (in ascii mode) $dir-by-date.txt <- directory sorted by descending date, ascending name. $dir-by-name.txt <- full directory sorted by dir/name $whats-new.txt <- this is updated daily to show most recent 15 submissions. README and .txt files: you need to be in ASCII mode to download, 'ascii' ftp> goodbye (to log off the server) There's a software directory with mac, pc and unix viewing software. If you hop up a directory (use CDUP here, not cd ..) you will find a few hundred more of other manufacturers'. If you're in Europe, you can try ftp: jupiter.lfbs.rwth-aachen.de cd /pub/.rec/graphics/pix/bikes. Return to the Table of Contents --------------------------------------------------------------------------- 42. If you can't afford a Ducati, but still have Duc-lust... ... that Ducati sound IS available on CD! Be sure to check out: http://www.micapeak.com/SDK/ducCD.html which is the official page for the CD where you find the latest information about the CD. OR... (thanks to Niclas Cederlund, (epknice@kaepk.ericsson.se) for the info) The Ducati Club of Sweden has made a CD with 23 tracks (1 is a song by the former chairman, 2 is commercials) with Ducatis that sing their bass through Contis and others. The contents are: 1. Let's go out and ride 2. 55/e '58 with open standard 3. 250 racer '65 with special 4. 350 Scrambler '71 with short Silentium 5. 350 XL Pantah '84 with modified Conti 2-1 6. Champion commercial 7. 450 racer '70 (Desmo) with special (Total winner of the Swedish National Classics '93. 8. 550 Supermono '93 with Termignoni dual outlet 9. 600 Pantah '83 with 2-1 10. 750 F1 '86 with Montjuich 2-1 (lovely bike!!!) 11. 750 Paso '90 with Aluminum 2-2 12. Pirelli Commercial 13. 851 Strada '90 with Modified standard 2-2 14. 900 Darmah '79 with 2-1 15. 900 "HPD" '78 with 2-2 16. 900 MHR '81 with NCR 2-1 17. 900SS x 2 '80/'90 with Conti 2-2/standard 2-1 18. Ducati Power (M. Werkelin) by Micke and The Desmos 19. 888 SP5 '93 with Termignoni carbon 2-2 20. M900 Monster '93 with Termignoni carbon 2-2 21. 907ie '92 with 2-2 22. 926 racer '93 with Termignoni special 2-2 23. Coming home All this on a good looking CD (it's all black with one of Dr. T's first drawings on the L-twin printed in gold. Printed inside the folder: "This record can be ordered from the Ducati Club of Sweden. Please send the equivalent of: SEK 60:- within Sweden SEK 70:- within Europe SEK 80:- worldwide To: Svenska Ducati Klubben c/o Peter Lindquist Lofotengatan 20, 5 tr S-164 33 KISTA SWEDEN or pay to Swedish Postgiro, account number 604452-3 Ducati enthusiasts are welcome to become members of the club. Membership costs SEK 200:-/year. Please pay to Postgiro, account number 4771371-4, and inform us of your address, telephone number, bike model, registration number, etc. You will receive the bimonthly "Cucciolo" magazine (Swedish edition only), and invitations to meetings and track sessions. Cover: Swedish summer sunset and a 900 MHR. All rights reserved Svenska Ducati Klubben Nico adds: "It's a ridiculous amount of money [ie., a pittance once exchanged for American dollars -- Editor] so if you want to support their work they don't mind you paying a bit more for the CD (my own opinion)." Return to the Table of Contents --------------------------------------------------------------------------- 43. Shameless quickie product endorsements. Meguiar's products to clean your Duck. From: Josh J Fielek, (jjf@inri.com) Consumer's Reports (June 1988) says that Meguiar's Car Cleaner, a paste wax, is the least abrasive wax with the best gloss and durability ratings. They recommend it for a new car. Good stuff. Get it. Use it. From: Ed Guzman (eguzman@nwpx12.nts.uswc.uswest.com) I use the Meguiar's Glazing Polish. Make sure the scoot is spotless, then Glaze, then wax. The glaze gives the shine and the wax protects the shine. That and you get to run your hands over that sexy Italian bodywork a coupla extra times! Motoport raingear From: Jon Wright (jwright@pages.com) I have the Motoport Atlas jacket and Ciano pants. The jacket is very bulky and warm and makes an excellent commute suit. It's got body armor, too. The only problem is I don't even wanna think about packing it, so I'll be getting the Ciano jacket to match before any big trips. Battery Tender(tm) From: Michael Nelson, (nelson@seahunt.imat.com) If the battery gets severely discharged, a 45 minute blast on the freeway won't recharge it more than superficially. IMHO, the Battery Tender is the best solution, and others on this list who use them on THEIR Ducks with puny charging systems will probably testify in behalf of the Battery Tender. They're only $49.95, and useful on ALL your batteries, both cars and bikes. Belstaff Dri Bika rain skin From: Godfrey DiGiorgi, (ramarren@apple.com) It pulls on easily over my leathers and other gear. It's red white and blue for visibility. And I'm happy to report that it is totally, utterly, completely waterproof. $100 well spent. The DriBika I obtained is an all synthetic, two-piece suit. I had a waxed cotton suit in the past and it's too bulky and messy for my needs. This is a light, rain skin only garment for pulling over my regular leathers (along with totes and rain mittens or waterproof gloves). "On Board at Laguna Seca & Road Atlanta" One of the things I picked up at the track was the first tape from Doug Polen's production company, Hyperformance International, Inc. which features the '93 Superbike races at Laguna Seca and Road Atlanta. Those watching the AMA Superbike championship carefully last year might have noted that Doug's bike was equipped with an on board camera for all the races, and that none of the video coverage presented to date was taken from Doug's bike... This is the first product of that effort, with some additional inset footage supplied by the Burke-Despain production crew's trackside cameras and Doug's commentary/narration for each of the races. I've now had the pleasure of watching both races a couple of times, seen from Doug's bike viewpoint. This is amazing stuff! I highly recommend this tape to any roadrace enthusiasts. The video quality is generally first rate, Doug's commentary is insightful and amusing (even if he does repeat himself now and again... ;) and the Laguna Seca race in particular is fantastic: he got off to a mediocre start and worked his way through the field methodically, then ran into some equipment trouble and finally took the lead on the very last section of the last lap. The tape runs about 55 minutes for both races. I'm sure the tapes will be available at the AMA Nationals race concession stands and through the usual video distribution channels shortly, but for those who want to find them more quickly: Hyperformance International Inc. P.O. Box 50237 Denton, Texas 76206 What I can add is that the number is 800.977.2323 (or 817.381.2300), that it is $29.95 plus $2.90 shipping/handling. Return to the Table of Contents --------------------------------------------------------------------------- 44. Nifty tricks, tips and mods every self-respecting Ducati owner ought to know about (yes there will be a test). removing fork caps on upside-down forks From: Mike Lee (mikel@ichips.intel.com) A neat trick for those who have upside-down forks (courtesy Jim Brewer). The biggest problem servicing them is removing the fork cap, which is secured with a locknut, which in turn is sheathed by the preload spacer. The manual calls for a special tool ($260) to force the spacer down, allowing access to the locknut. It seems almost impossible without it. Well, a trick is to put a hook into each of the two holes drilled into the preload spacer. Then run a tie-down through the axle end to the hooks. Crank down on the tie-down, and viola, the spring is compressed and reveals the locknut. I thought it was pretty ingenious. Studs on your cush drive Make sure to Loctite the studs on the cush drive when you change sprockets. replacement air filter for 851 If you don't want to shell out mucho dinero for a genuine Fiamm part, run down to the local auto parts store and pick up either Purolator xx31153 or Fram CA3399. Both are meant for the '77 Porsche 924 2.0. The Fram version fits perfectly, while you'll need to trim the Purolator one a tad. yet another way to check the alignment of your rear wheel while adjusting your chain Carl Liebold (carl_liebold@engtwomac.SynOptics.COM) I've always aligned my wheels the way I saw Rich Oliver do it on his TZ250 years ago. I think this way is standard "racer" practice. Put bike on service stand. Take about 15 feet of string (elastic thread works best!). Tape center of string to back of the rear wheel about 4" off the ground. Bring the ends of the string to the front of the bike. Tie the ends of the string to some movable objects (I use a pair of jack stands), at the same height (4"). The idea is to set the strings so they are parallel and "just" in contact to the front edge rear tire by moving the jack stands. With the strings taped to the back of the rear tire, and "just" touching the front edge of the rear tire, they should make two parallel lines that run forward, passing along either side of the front tire. Now the alignment of the front and rear wheels can be easily observed by examining the clearance of the front wheel and the string on either side. Adjust the chain adjuster appropriately if necessary, and then recheck. It's a pain to do the first time, but then it gets easy. Use the thinnest, elastic thread you can find. Also, try rotating the rear wheel to several points to make sure you aren't just adjusting for uneven tire manufacture. And make sure the thread isn't on some bump of "mold seam" rubber or in a tread at the edge of the tire. This would screw up everything. Obviously, this method ignores how the chain and sprockets are aligned, and focuses on how the wheels and tires are aligned. I can imagine that having the sprockets and wheels aligned simultaneously may not be possible, and I'd rather have the wheels lined up. When using this procedure on my '92 750SS, a quarter turn of one of the chain adjusters is quite significant. When complete, the adjusters appear to be at even marks at either side of the bike, indicating adequate manufacturing. However, a quarter turns seams to effect the alignment significantly, but is just about invisible in relation to the adjuster marks. oil pressure gauge for air-cooled rubberbandheads When Greg Starr's oil light refused to impart the correct warnings (ie. it quit), Greg thought a real engine ought to have a real gauge -- so he went to the local auto parts store and bought a gauge with a flexible oil line and a "metric adapter." Ran him about $23. He's very happy with it and notes that when warm, the pressure's a little over 40 psi, and when ripping through canyons or unsuspecting parking lots it gets around 70 psi. Godfrey DiGiorgi warns that if you perform this mod, you need to keep a careful eye on leakage, either in the bourdon tube assembly inside the gauge head or at any of the fittings or on the tube. There are more points a mechanical gauge can fail it than the idiot light, so it would be wise to keep some blanking plugs around just in case. Rubber mount the gauge to be on the safe side. keep spare fuses somewhere other than the fuse box From: Beth Dixon, bethd@netcom.com Ducati fuse box covers pop off whenever the bikes (at least the modern ones) go down on the left side. Of course, fuses scatter all over the place and are more often than not munched too badly to be reused. So, where does Ducati give you room to carry extra fuses? That's right, just below the ones you need in the same fuse box. Bzzzt. Without a 30 amp fuse (the master, the top one) and a 15 amp fuse (for the fuel pump, second one down) the bike won't go anywhere. If you don't travel with another Ducati so the downed bike has a ready supply of still-in-place fuses, its probably a good idea to carry at least a spare of each of these in the toolkit or a pocket. Moisture on the covers of your spark plug covers Experiencing running on one cylinder on your 900ss? Has it been wet there? Even heavy dew? The metal covers on the spark plug wires can accumulate moisture and short out to the cylinder head. The covers can be removed easily without damage to the wires. bleeding the system of those infernal air bubbles From: Tom Dietrich (txd@mkt.3com.com) Duc seems to breed air bubbles? If you have the screw turned all the way in, as I do, you need to back it out a bit before attempting to bleed the system. Perfect paint match for 750ss rubberbandheads From: Jon Wright (jwright@pages.com) I was doing some research in my issues of M'cyclist and ran across this tidbit for 750ss owners trying to match SFI Red. He managed to locate, after a fair bit of legwork, the following perfect match for touch-up work: Plasti-Kote-Toyota 3223 Alternate source for Weber/Marelli ignition and injection components From: Ian Gunn (gunn@watson.ibm.com) It's not direct from Weber, but it bypasses Cagiva N.A. and the markup you pay for buying Weber commodities as Ducati parts. They'll get a serious order (like 4 injectors) flown in from Weber Italy. Weber USA are impossible to deal with, even for those like TWM who are in the business. TWM Induction 325D Rutherford St. Goleta, CA 93117. (805) 967-9478. Ask for Gary Pollard Return to the Table of Contents --------------------------------------------------------------------------- 45. PRODUCT WARNINGS! ** Ohlins steering dampers Subject: Ohlins dampers Dear Most Valued Customer, This notice is sent to you in accordance with the requirements of the National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. Ohlins Racing AB in Sweden has determined that a defect which relates to motor vehicle safety exists in the case of certain steering dampers, marked by part number SD1001/1002 and SD2001/2002. The steering dampers were manufactured from May 1993 to April 1994 and were sold during the same period. The steering dampers due for remedy can be identified since they are marked with the product name (i.e. SD1001 together with the product week:V321- V413). The marked date stands for the year and week (for example, V334=1993 in week 34). Please note the dates outside the period week 21 in 1993 to week 13 in 1994 are not applicable for this recall. The steering dampers show an unacceptable friction level, which influences the function of the product. The result can cause very hard damping and an un-smooth feeling in the function of the steering damper, and in a severe case could cause loss of control. You should not ride your motorcycle unnecessarily before the steering damper is dismantled from your motorcycle. We will remedy the defect without charge. We will replace the one-way valve, which cures the problem, and the service will take less than half an hour to perform. Please send your steering damper to Noleen Racing Inc., 16276 Koala Rd., Adelanto, CA 92301, or if inconvenient, please contact us at phone number (619) 246-5000 for assistance. If we have failed or are unable to remedy this defect without charge or within a reasonable amount of time, you may submit a complaint to the Administrator of the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, 400 Seventh St., S.W. Washington, DC 20590, or call the toll-free Auto Safety Hotline at (800) 424-9393. (Washington residents may call 366-0123.) Yours Sincerely, Clark Jones, President Noleen Racing Inc. Adelanto, CA ** Two-piece Marvic wheels on Ducati 900sl's (Superlights) These are the ones with the aluminum rims and magnesium centers. The centers are bolted to the rims using ultra-trick bolts, instead of welded together. These bolts have to be torqued EVERY SIX MONTHS according to the factory service manuals (not the owner's manual). Apparently, this isn't often enough as posters have had to have them covered under warranty. It seems that if they loosen, they can shift around in their holes enough to bang the hole out of round, ruining the wheel. If you have these wheels, find out what the proper torque for these bolts are and check them on a regular basis. Although the problem has only been reported on rears, check the fronts, too, to be on the safe side. If they're loose, take your 900sl to a dealer for inspection and possible warranty replacement. Return to the Table of Contents --------------------------------------------------------------------------- 46. "Where's the Ducati Newsgroup/Mailing List?" Sadly, there's no newgroup, but there is a mailing list. Send a message containing the word "help" to ducati-request@ducati.net and you'll get the whole story. The short version is "send a message containing this line: subscribe ducati your@email.address to Majordomo@ducati.net 47. "What would you do for a 916?" A poster found this in his mailbox and asks, "Do you think I should take up the offer?": Allow me to introduce Lucifer de Ville Motorcycle Leasing. Your household has been selected by our marketing research department to participate in a highly attractive promotion. If you decide to take up our offer you will receive: * Ducati 916, taxed and insured * Full maintenance and tyres through a local dealer of your choice * Dayglo neon coloured leathers, boots and helmet of your choice * The opportunity to replace the bike with a comparable model every two years * Free membership of the international motorcycle club - Denizens of Doom To check whether you are eligible for this offer, please answer the following three simple questions. 1. You are in the pub with a group of friends. It's your round but Bob stands up and says "What are you all having?" Do you: a) Sit quiet. Bob's old enough and ugly enough to look after himself and if he wants to buy the beer, that's his lookout. b) Say "Hey, Bob sit down, it's my round" c) Sit quiet but buy the next round and get everyone nuts and crisps to make up. 2. You're out on a ride with your mates and you are leading. Twenty miles from the nearest garage you come across a Volvo Estate with two flat tyres. The driver and his family are standing at the side of the road. Do you: a) Change down a gear, twist open the throttle and give the driver the finger as you scream past. It serves the bastard right for driving a tank. b) Stop and see if you can help, ferry the car driver to the next garage leaving your mates to look after his wife and kids. c) Stop at the next phone and send out the breakdown service. 3. Dave, a friend, parks his bike outside your house while he goes shopping in town. He leaves the keys with you. It's a bike you've always wanted to ride so you take it out for a spin while he's away. At a junction you slip on gravel and drop the bike whilst almost stationary scratching the fairing and smashing an indicator lens. You realize you're not insured for the damage. Do you: a) Take the bike home and park it exactly where your friend left it and tell him some kids playing around the house knocked it over. He couldn't have put the sidestand up properly. b) Own up and offer to pay for the repairs when your friend gets back. c) Dash to the bike shop, pick up a new indicator lens and polish the scratches out as soon as you get back. If you answered a) to all of the above, you qualify for our special promotion. If you gave any other answer, it's unlikely that you'll be interested in our low cost leasing scheme and there's little point in you reading further. Lucifer de Ville's offer is a lifetime leasing agreement with nothing, that's right, NOTHING, to pay until you stop riding. All we require is that you commit your soul to Lucifer de Ville Motorcycle Leasing and carry out small tasks that may be requested of you from time to time. By answering a) to all the questions above, you have already shown that you are more than ready to face up to any of the tasks that we might ask you to carry out on our behalf. Please read through the attached contract, supplied in triplicate with a copy for Lucifer de Ville Motorcycle Leasing, a copy to be retained by yourself and a third copy for Al Mighty and Son Inc. This contract should be signed in blood and be witnessed by three fellow riders. Our representative, Damien, will be in your area next week and will call on you to help you finalize this contract. In the meantime if you have any queries or if you want to arrange a short test ride on the Ducati 916 please call our customer services department on our free phone number: 0800 666 666 We look forward to doing business with you. Luke de Ville He adds: "I've had a quick look through the contract. It's difficult to read being printed in 4pt Gothic Script but I think I've identified some of the pluses and minuses. Pluses: * New Bike every two years. * After I stop riding, permanent accommodation with excellent heating facilities supplied free of charge. * I get to go on rides with a group of riders called Horseman of the Apocalypse; sounds like fun. * Free membership of the DoD. I'm already a member so I wonder if I can get some sort of rebate Minuses: * Signing the contract in blood. Surely this is just biker's terminology for red ink? * You have to submit to an anal inspection once a year on 31st October by a representative of Lucifer de Ville Motorcycle Leasing. They reckon it's to check up on piles caused by uncomfortable bike seats. I'll try and a get this struck from the contract -- I'll be buggered if anyone's shoving anything up my arse! * You can't specify a Harley as a replacement bike. Apparently they're all ridden by Al Mighty and Son and their followers. (Do people really follow Harleys? I suppose that's another thread.) * A copy of the contract goes to Al Mighty and Son Inc. I don't see what they've got do with this scheme. Something in the contract mentions that this outfit has large offices in Rome, Italy of all places. I hope they're not something to do with the Mafia. Anyway the offer sounds good to me. One of my mates made some wise crack about it being paying on the forever and ever rather than the never, never but I think he's just jealous. Any of you guys out on the net heard of this scheme or got any advice?" Return to the Table of Contents 48. "Any words of wisdom about leaky clutch slave cylinders and rebuilding them?" Compiled by Edward Hotchkiss From: Chris Taylor Make sure the inside of the cylinder is nice and smooth- polish it with a really fine sandpaper or something. I put a new seal in mine and it went together with no problem. Make sure the little rubber seal is installed the right way around- look how the old one is on the piston. From: chris in houston My only advice is to change the fluid every 1,000 miles. I know it sounds extreme, but the slave cyclinder gets very hot and cooks the fluid. Keep an eye out for discoloration, rust spots, etc. on the the inside lining of the cylinder body. If it looks bad replace it. Just replacing the seal sometimes won't fix the leak. From: Kevin Hawkins, klhawkins@attmail.com, '95 900CR My experience in rebuilding my clutch slave cylinder. Piece o' cake!! Place an oil drain pan under the bike. Remove the three hex bolts and pull the slave unit off the bike (takes a little tugging). Holding the slave unit in your hand with your palm read to catch the piston, give the clutch handle a quick squeeze. Out pops the piston in your hand. Pull the light spring off the back, remove the outer scraper seal and remove the rubber dampener inside the piston. A very simple mechanism! Using 600 wet/dry sandpaper, then very very fine steel wool, then your Dremel polish attachment, polish the inside bore of the slave unit. It's roughness is what caused the scraper seal to fail. Replace the scraper seal and inside dampener plug(I don't know why you replace the inside dampener other than it comes with the kit $13.95 Action Cycles). Reassemble and bleed using my "bottom up" method and your good to go!! From: David Harvey, (Secretary) Ducati Owners Club (GB), Surrey, England Anyone concerned at clutch slave piston seal leakage might be interested in up-grading the 'O'-ring with a seal from a specialist seal supplier as the Ducati one does appear to be of a standard size. I contacted the company listed below and they supplied me with one of their 'Quad-rings'. They are double-lipped seals and in cross section look like a four-pointed star, each point being very rounded of course. The sealing principle is similar to DID's 'X'-Ring chain. They are designed to fit into standard 'O' ring grooves. The cost is slightly less than Ducati's own part but the only snag is that I believe the company now has a minimum order quantity of 15. They are still good value if you can share the cost with some fellow Ducati owners. I fitted one six years (and 40,000 miles ago) to my 1989 906 Paso and its still fine. The 1989 Paso has the slave cylinder on the right hand side of the engine where it also has to cope with clutch dust. The part number is: Q.4210-559N and the company: Wills Engineered Polymers Ltd of Dunball Park, Dunball, Bridgewater, Somerset TA6 4TP, England phone: 01278 684888 fax: 01278 685051 Telex: 46207 Return to the Table of Contents 49. "Can you find Neutral on your Duc?" From: "Jeffrey E. Sussna" Here's the secret for getting your Duc into neutral each and every time. 1. Always shift up from first. 2. Always do #1 before coming to a complete stop. 3. If #2 fails, get back into first, and try again while revving the engine a bit. 4. If #3 fails, get back into first, and try again while moving the bike forward under power a foot or two. Return to the Table of Contents 50. "Where can I get stickers? Stickers and Decals of many types can be found at the following locations. Please be aware of the background color since some of them are clear and therefore require a suitable background to be visible. * TapeWorks (http://www.tapeworks.com/) * Teamline (http://teamline.com) Return to the Table of Contents 51. So, is there a big long list of what non-standard parts you can use on your duck? Yes, there is. Check out The Ducati parts interchangeability list, (http://homepages.enterprise.net/dtempleton/DOC/interch.htm) by David Harvey , (Secretary) Ducati Owners Club (GB) (http://homepages.enterprise.net/dtempleton/) Return to the Table of Contents --------------------------------------------------------------------------- -- Duke Robillard, duke@io.com